Bopiliao Old Street

In an era of constant development, neglect, and redevelopment, history often gets lost along quiet alleys left to decay. Many urban redevelopment projects around the world take historic districts and repurpose them for new commercial uses. In a country with as limited space as Taiwan, one would expect this trend to be even more pronounced. Fortunately, however, Taiwan's residents often have a deep seated fondness for the past while has led to a variety of preservation projects over the years. One of the most famous of these is Bopiliao, a historically important street within the once prosperous trade center known as Wanhua District.

During the Qing dynasty era, Bopiliao rose to prominence as a shipping and export center due to its ideal location along the Tamsui River. Though it's hard to imagine Chinese trading vessels plying the bends of this river today, transport over water was once the only practical method of moving goods in and out of the Taipei basin. Nowadays, Bopiliao is more commonly referred to as Monga (or Manka) (艋舺) because of a popular Taiwanese film depicting the less savory gangster lifestyle once characteristic of the area.

Though the traders and shop owners have long since left, it was the residents of Monga that pressed the government to rehabilitate the old street and architecture, rather than allow new buildings to be erected in its stead. The brick construction and wooden doors offer a lens to the past, so take your time to explore back alleys and open spaces and try to imagine the liveliness of this historically vibrant area.

At the far end of the street you will enter into the Heritage and Culture Education Center of Taipei. Here you will find a carefully preserved Chinese medicine shop and grade school augmented with historical photographs and interactive learning tools. The 20th century was a complex period in Taiwan's history, and evidence of colonial influences and competing priorities can be seen in the classrooms on the second floor. Look for the portrait of Dr. Sun Yat-sen, a once omnipresent figure in all Taiwanese classrooms but who also stands in stark contrast with written reminders from Japanese officials preaching their own expectations for a well-groomed individual. In the adjoining building, the remnants of a once prosperous traditional medicine shop teach the ancient yet intricate methods for treating health problems. Test your knowledge of common as well as otherworldly natural remedies kept in drawers along the wall.

Although the area is often described as a bit rough around the edges, a day in and around Bopiliao offers the sort of genuineness that only a living town can provide. The people who walk the streets and the businesses that cater to them are not an artificial reproduction; this is Monga, and life continues as it always has here.